Q. A TV under $2000 and not a power hog? Exclude sharp, or DLP type tvs. What is the best way to test or determine whether for instance like the differences between the tvs for different refresh rates say 60hz, 120hz or 240hz etc? What are your experiences with your tv that you have just purchased did you get a good deal and where did you find the deal?
Answer
Look into a Panasonic plasma. You can find up to a 50" for under $2000. LCD's are not worth the money. Pretty much any plasma you'll find out on the market now will out-perform any LCD you put it up against, even an LED. And dont be scared off by what some people may say about plasma's. Most of their information is out-dated. Burn-in is no longer an issue. You'd have to be TRYING to burn-in an image for it to even be an issue, even then its only temporary. Any burn-in will correct itself after normal viewing on the TV. Image retention on any LCD is permanent. Although its extremely difficult on either type of set. LCD's have poor response times which lead to motion-blur. Most newer plasma's have .001ms response times(almost instantaneous) where the best LCD response time I've ever seen is 2.4ms, with most LCD's having between 4-6ms response times. LCD's have poor viewing angles(when you move off center you lose picture quality and color) when comparing it to any plasma. And contrast and color accuracy are far better on any plasma. "Well what about glare?" loads of people would say. The only LCD's which actually combat glare have extremely matte finish screens. The color on those sets are horrible. It's as though youre looking at the picture through a foggy window, the colors extremely dull and faded. LCD's with the best color have a gloss on their screen which give equal amounts, if not more, glare than a plasma. As for power consumption, plasmas do use more power, but we're talking about $1 more than an equal size LCD. You can use the money you saved getting a plasma towards that $12 a year extra you'd be using. In the end, look up any LCD v Plasma rating that actually gives you a winner(not just state the differences) and you'll find plasma's blow LCD's out of the water. Plasma= more TV for less money.
Look into a Panasonic plasma. You can find up to a 50" for under $2000. LCD's are not worth the money. Pretty much any plasma you'll find out on the market now will out-perform any LCD you put it up against, even an LED. And dont be scared off by what some people may say about plasma's. Most of their information is out-dated. Burn-in is no longer an issue. You'd have to be TRYING to burn-in an image for it to even be an issue, even then its only temporary. Any burn-in will correct itself after normal viewing on the TV. Image retention on any LCD is permanent. Although its extremely difficult on either type of set. LCD's have poor response times which lead to motion-blur. Most newer plasma's have .001ms response times(almost instantaneous) where the best LCD response time I've ever seen is 2.4ms, with most LCD's having between 4-6ms response times. LCD's have poor viewing angles(when you move off center you lose picture quality and color) when comparing it to any plasma. And contrast and color accuracy are far better on any plasma. "Well what about glare?" loads of people would say. The only LCD's which actually combat glare have extremely matte finish screens. The color on those sets are horrible. It's as though youre looking at the picture through a foggy window, the colors extremely dull and faded. LCD's with the best color have a gloss on their screen which give equal amounts, if not more, glare than a plasma. As for power consumption, plasmas do use more power, but we're talking about $1 more than an equal size LCD. You can use the money you saved getting a plasma towards that $12 a year extra you'd be using. In the end, look up any LCD v Plasma rating that actually gives you a winner(not just state the differences) and you'll find plasma's blow LCD's out of the water. Plasma= more TV for less money.
Why did my TV signal get weak and the networks change channels?
jason g
I recently got a new big screen TV. Shortly after I got it home, we had a bad storm and the power went out. The next morning, when we turned it on, it could only find a few of the channels we had before. Some of them can be found by typing in the channel numbers, but most of the channels are different now, the local channels are static and the provider says it's something in the house, not in the line or service.
Answer
Most likely, you made the number one mistake of TV and video equipment owners: failure to use a surge protector. People will spend thousands on an HDTV, then fail to spend another $40 to protect it from the necessity of a very expensive repair bill. Voltage surges on the power line are a *very* common cause for electronic equipment failures, especially HDTVs.
Your TV most likely has been damaged by a voltage surge on the power line, common during storms or other power outages. It might be repairable under warranty if failure to use a surge protector doesn't void the warranty.
You may have to take it to a service shop. While it's in the shop, visit the electrical department of a large hardware store and buy yourself two surge protectors. Donât get the cheapest you can find. Those selling in the U.S. for around $10 to $15 are little more than power strips. You should expect to pay in the range of $30 to $50 or more for a unit that will confidently protect a few thousand dollars worth equipment.
Check the specs on any surge protector youâre considering. Look for the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) label, a transient or clamping voltage of 330 volts (U.S. systems), and a joule rating in the thousands (2000 to 4000 or more).
Be sure to plug all of your electronics into the surge protector: TV, DVD player, cable or satellite box, home theater receiver, surround sound amplifier. etc. The second one is for your computer and its peripherals (printer, scanner, Internet modem, router, etc.). If itâs electronic, itâs at risk for surge damage.
Surge protectors come with a monitoring circuit that continually tests its quality. When itâs providing full protection, an LED or other light is illuminated and remains steady. If the light goes out or begins to blink, the surge protector should be replaced. (It can still be used as a power strip but not a surge protector.)
Most likely, you made the number one mistake of TV and video equipment owners: failure to use a surge protector. People will spend thousands on an HDTV, then fail to spend another $40 to protect it from the necessity of a very expensive repair bill. Voltage surges on the power line are a *very* common cause for electronic equipment failures, especially HDTVs.
Your TV most likely has been damaged by a voltage surge on the power line, common during storms or other power outages. It might be repairable under warranty if failure to use a surge protector doesn't void the warranty.
You may have to take it to a service shop. While it's in the shop, visit the electrical department of a large hardware store and buy yourself two surge protectors. Donât get the cheapest you can find. Those selling in the U.S. for around $10 to $15 are little more than power strips. You should expect to pay in the range of $30 to $50 or more for a unit that will confidently protect a few thousand dollars worth equipment.
Check the specs on any surge protector youâre considering. Look for the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) label, a transient or clamping voltage of 330 volts (U.S. systems), and a joule rating in the thousands (2000 to 4000 or more).
Be sure to plug all of your electronics into the surge protector: TV, DVD player, cable or satellite box, home theater receiver, surround sound amplifier. etc. The second one is for your computer and its peripherals (printer, scanner, Internet modem, router, etc.). If itâs electronic, itâs at risk for surge damage.
Surge protectors come with a monitoring circuit that continually tests its quality. When itâs providing full protection, an LED or other light is illuminated and remains steady. If the light goes out or begins to blink, the surge protector should be replaced. (It can still be used as a power strip but not a surge protector.)
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