Showing posts with label led tv amp draw. Show all posts
Showing posts with label led tv amp draw. Show all posts

Friday, May 16, 2014

Is more electricity consumed when you elevate the volume of a tv or stereo?




001218


I have a 90 watt stereo and have always wondered if it uses more energy when playing music loud. The same applies to other devices. Is there a direct relationship between decibels and electricity?


Answer
There is, but the difference is more theoretical than practical. In terms of any difference on your power bill, you're really not going to see anything.

In U.S. systems, a 90 watt device draws less than one additional amp, above the idle state, on audio peaks from a standard 15 amp household electrical circuit, and such peaks are obviously not constant. So "more electricity?" Basically, yes, but not enough to matter.

Running a 90-watt amp full bore can cause other issues like damaged eardrums and pictures falling off the wall, but that doesn't significantly affect your power load unless you're doing something really odd like a constant, unchanging tone that keeps the amp on max output for a lengthy period.
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Followup for #1 Mom: that TV guy is leading you astray. If you bought a conventional LCD set (not LED), the backlight is a fluorescent lamp that will eventually burn out. Leaving a TV on full time actually made sense 40 years ago with all-tube TVs (the worst thing you can do to a vacuum tube is turn it on), but that's not true with a TV that has no tubes. If you're not going to watch your flatscreen for maybe 30 minutes or more, I'd definitely be turning it off.

Can I use a 7A power cable for a device with a 9A requirement without breaking either of them?




Xealot 129


I bought a TV and it requires 9 amps but it didn't include the cable. I have a 7 amp cable that fits, but I don't want to damage the TV. All the cables at stores around me don't fit well. Could I get away with just using this one for a couple days until the right one arrives in the mail? I can imagine that it wouldn't give me reliable power, but I don't really care about that, I just don't want to damage the power supply of the TV. Thanks in advance.
I bought a TV and it requires 9 amps but it didn't include the cable. I have a 7 amp cable that fits, but I don't want to damage the TV. All the cables at stores around me don't fit well. Could I get away with just using this one for a couple days until the right one arrives in the mail? I can imagine that it wouldn't give me reliable power, but I don't really care about that, I just don't want to damage the power supply of the TV. Thanks in advance.

its a viore LCD32VH56 and the specs on the default power cable are 110/240 volts, 9 amps



Answer
You have a TV that draws 9 amps from a 117 v.a.c. power line? That's roughly a kilowatt. You could run three 55-inch LED sets for that, with power to spare.

Or does your TV operate from a 12-volt d.c. source, like for a boat or RV? That would make more sense, 108 watts total. In that case, using the wrong power cable could be at least a theoretical hazard. I'd wait for the proper cable.

If you'll update your post with the make and model of your TV and what you're powering it from, you might get a better answer. Your location would also help, at least which country due to different a.c. power systems.
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Followup, per your added details: now I get it--you have a power cord that's rated at 7 or 9 amps, not a TV that draws that much. That's entirely different. Your TV/DVD combo will use a maximum of about 150 watts, which means it will draw just a little over one amp. So any power cord you can find that fits properly and is rated at something like 3 amps or more will be fine.




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Friday, January 3, 2014

Is it safe to plug an air conditioner to my surge protector?

led tv amp draw
 on LED Running Lights & Turn Signal Kit: Polaris Ranger XP HD HO RZR RZRS ...
led tv amp draw image



rangerov49


I have a cyberpower 1030HT, which has a 6000 joule rating. http://reviews.cnet.com/power-equipment/cyberpower-10-outlet-home/4507-3055_7-31746650.html?tag=mncol;rnav (specs) I am planning on buying a 10,000 BTU AC unit. I have a 40 inch samsung LED TV, cable box, Wii, Xbox and blue ray player hooked up to it right now. I want to protect the unit from any voltage spikes due to brown outs, since its common in the summer when grids are at their peek use. Would it be safe to do?


Answer
Well if you want my opinion, the air conditioner is probably gonna be too much amp draw. But these new units have a circuit breaker built in to the ac plug, so it most likely won't hurt anything That would be my concern. The surge protector should do it's job! The AC in my opinion should have it's own outlet or a heavy duty cord rated above the AC amp draw!

I need help with generators/inverters?




John


I am looking for a generator/inverter that is safe to run inside (ex. a bus ride with no cigarette lighters) so it cant be gas powered. I also need it to power an xbox 360 and a small tv. any help?
ps. you can pick the size of the tv and tell me how many watts it is
thanks
Do you think this could power an xbox and a small tv?
http://www.vat19.com/dvds/power-dome-ex-400-watt-compact-generator.cfm?adid=youtube



Answer
You cannot have a generator then.

An Xbox360 draws around 200W. A smaller LED backlit TV (19-22") will draw 30 to 40W or so. You would get a 400W inverter. 300W transates to around 30A from the battery (counting conversion losses)

The hard part would be the batttery, which would be something substantial, and not cheap. If you want several hours playtime, you want a few hundred amp-hours of deep cycle SLA type battery.

My advice would be to find other entertianment.




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Wednesday, January 1, 2014

how Big of generator do i need?

led tv amp draw
 on Not too sneaky when you are out at night spraying a train or something ...
led tv amp draw image



B K


I have a travel trailer and would like to buy a generator for it.
-I only need to run a few of the small lights inside (probably 5 watts each)
-flat screen tv ( about 30")
-furnace ( propane )
-fridge can run off propane
I wont be using the AC ever


I just bought the trailer and it has a battery. The furnace ran for a few hours off the battery. Im not sure if the battery needs replacing or if I can just use the Gen to fuel the battery...

Im thinking about a honeywell 1000i



Answer
Do you actually need a generator? Most travel trailers only have a single battery mainly due to cost. And the battery that comes with it, and you replace with, is usually not a true deep cycle battery but is actually a hybrid. A Group24 marine battery is only rated for about 110Amph Hours, and you can discharge it down to about 60% before things begin to stop working. So, in warm weather, you have about 65 Amp Hours or so to use. In cold weather, capacity falls off as the temperature drops. This is the main reason why your furnace only runs for a few hours.

If your lights are the 'traditional' incandescent types, their wattage is actually closer to between 12-18 watts apiece and will draw 1 to 1.5 amps each. Unless your fridge has manual controls, it still requires battery power to work at a rate of about half an amp when actually burning propane. If your converter is an older 'linear' type (usually rated at 40amps or less), I can almost guarantee you that it is not capable of charging the battery like it needs to be (3 amp charge rate usually).

I would suggest that you look at a pair of golf cart batteries (wire in series for 12 volts) as they will have a significantly longer time between charges (around 3 times the time for a single Group 24/27) and can tolerate a lot of abuse if you keep them watered. Most trailer batteries are killed through neglect, and are usually too small to begin with. A pair of golf cart batteries (Costco / Sams Club) takes care of size. Upgrade your lighting to LED and your night time power consumption drops greatly. On a side note, I run my LED lighting circuits off a single Dewalt drill battery, 18 volts (doesn't get recharged) for *weeks* at a time. Fantastic efficiency! Install an inverter (inexpensive) to run the TV / VCR / Satellite / Laptop / small 120vac appliances. Use in conjunction with golf cart batteries.

Have your converter checked out, especially for voltage ripple. Upgrade yourself (not hard) if needed.

Make sure your car / pickup is able to send power back to the trailer so that its battery charges while driving. You would be surprised how easy the fuse blows under the hood when trailer connector is wet and you plug it in.

Install a 200 watt solar panel on the roof. Not only will it help shade the roof, but it will deliver around 50 Amp Hours (3 hour of sunlight, 15 Amp charge rate) into your batteries. If you haven't noticed, I am not a big fan of portable generators. Seems like more hidden hassles than they are worth.

If you do insist on getting a generator, look for a parallel feature. This allows you to use 2 inverter generators together as one for larger loads if needed. You can always add a second generator if needed. ECO throttle / mode is a necessity as this ensures that the generator is an inverter model and is safe for your electronics. Fuel consumption is also very meager. There are models that can run off propane directly (aftermarket mod), able to use extended-run gasoline tanks, and so whisper quiet they are exempt from quiet-time rules in state/national parks. Yet can still be stored in a toolbox or other small space.

Is my TV running in 120hz?




Augie C


I just bought a new Samsung TV that was advertised as 120hz, but when I go to my PS3's input, on top it says 1080 60p. Does that mean it is running in 60hz?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/46-class-45-9-10-diag--led-1080p-120hz-3d-hdtv/8346045.p?id=1218872211460&skuId=8346045&st=pcmcat193400050018_categoryid$abcat0101001&cp=1&lp=1

That is the TV.



Answer
The numbers that flash up tell you what the INPUT signal is like, not what the TV is running at.

Your TV takes the 60 frames of video per second from your PS3 and draws each one twice. This reduces motion blur and allows them to call it "120 hz".

The 120 hz is built into the physical decay of the panel and cannot be changed.




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