led tv amp draw image
B K
I have a travel trailer and would like to buy a generator for it.
-I only need to run a few of the small lights inside (probably 5 watts each)
-flat screen tv ( about 30")
-furnace ( propane )
-fridge can run off propane
I wont be using the AC ever
I just bought the trailer and it has a battery. The furnace ran for a few hours off the battery. Im not sure if the battery needs replacing or if I can just use the Gen to fuel the battery...
Im thinking about a honeywell 1000i
Answer
Do you actually need a generator? Most travel trailers only have a single battery mainly due to cost. And the battery that comes with it, and you replace with, is usually not a true deep cycle battery but is actually a hybrid. A Group24 marine battery is only rated for about 110Amph Hours, and you can discharge it down to about 60% before things begin to stop working. So, in warm weather, you have about 65 Amp Hours or so to use. In cold weather, capacity falls off as the temperature drops. This is the main reason why your furnace only runs for a few hours.
If your lights are the 'traditional' incandescent types, their wattage is actually closer to between 12-18 watts apiece and will draw 1 to 1.5 amps each. Unless your fridge has manual controls, it still requires battery power to work at a rate of about half an amp when actually burning propane. If your converter is an older 'linear' type (usually rated at 40amps or less), I can almost guarantee you that it is not capable of charging the battery like it needs to be (3 amp charge rate usually).
I would suggest that you look at a pair of golf cart batteries (wire in series for 12 volts) as they will have a significantly longer time between charges (around 3 times the time for a single Group 24/27) and can tolerate a lot of abuse if you keep them watered. Most trailer batteries are killed through neglect, and are usually too small to begin with. A pair of golf cart batteries (Costco / Sams Club) takes care of size. Upgrade your lighting to LED and your night time power consumption drops greatly. On a side note, I run my LED lighting circuits off a single Dewalt drill battery, 18 volts (doesn't get recharged) for *weeks* at a time. Fantastic efficiency! Install an inverter (inexpensive) to run the TV / VCR / Satellite / Laptop / small 120vac appliances. Use in conjunction with golf cart batteries.
Have your converter checked out, especially for voltage ripple. Upgrade yourself (not hard) if needed.
Make sure your car / pickup is able to send power back to the trailer so that its battery charges while driving. You would be surprised how easy the fuse blows under the hood when trailer connector is wet and you plug it in.
Install a 200 watt solar panel on the roof. Not only will it help shade the roof, but it will deliver around 50 Amp Hours (3 hour of sunlight, 15 Amp charge rate) into your batteries. If you haven't noticed, I am not a big fan of portable generators. Seems like more hidden hassles than they are worth.
If you do insist on getting a generator, look for a parallel feature. This allows you to use 2 inverter generators together as one for larger loads if needed. You can always add a second generator if needed. ECO throttle / mode is a necessity as this ensures that the generator is an inverter model and is safe for your electronics. Fuel consumption is also very meager. There are models that can run off propane directly (aftermarket mod), able to use extended-run gasoline tanks, and so whisper quiet they are exempt from quiet-time rules in state/national parks. Yet can still be stored in a toolbox or other small space.
Do you actually need a generator? Most travel trailers only have a single battery mainly due to cost. And the battery that comes with it, and you replace with, is usually not a true deep cycle battery but is actually a hybrid. A Group24 marine battery is only rated for about 110Amph Hours, and you can discharge it down to about 60% before things begin to stop working. So, in warm weather, you have about 65 Amp Hours or so to use. In cold weather, capacity falls off as the temperature drops. This is the main reason why your furnace only runs for a few hours.
If your lights are the 'traditional' incandescent types, their wattage is actually closer to between 12-18 watts apiece and will draw 1 to 1.5 amps each. Unless your fridge has manual controls, it still requires battery power to work at a rate of about half an amp when actually burning propane. If your converter is an older 'linear' type (usually rated at 40amps or less), I can almost guarantee you that it is not capable of charging the battery like it needs to be (3 amp charge rate usually).
I would suggest that you look at a pair of golf cart batteries (wire in series for 12 volts) as they will have a significantly longer time between charges (around 3 times the time for a single Group 24/27) and can tolerate a lot of abuse if you keep them watered. Most trailer batteries are killed through neglect, and are usually too small to begin with. A pair of golf cart batteries (Costco / Sams Club) takes care of size. Upgrade your lighting to LED and your night time power consumption drops greatly. On a side note, I run my LED lighting circuits off a single Dewalt drill battery, 18 volts (doesn't get recharged) for *weeks* at a time. Fantastic efficiency! Install an inverter (inexpensive) to run the TV / VCR / Satellite / Laptop / small 120vac appliances. Use in conjunction with golf cart batteries.
Have your converter checked out, especially for voltage ripple. Upgrade yourself (not hard) if needed.
Make sure your car / pickup is able to send power back to the trailer so that its battery charges while driving. You would be surprised how easy the fuse blows under the hood when trailer connector is wet and you plug it in.
Install a 200 watt solar panel on the roof. Not only will it help shade the roof, but it will deliver around 50 Amp Hours (3 hour of sunlight, 15 Amp charge rate) into your batteries. If you haven't noticed, I am not a big fan of portable generators. Seems like more hidden hassles than they are worth.
If you do insist on getting a generator, look for a parallel feature. This allows you to use 2 inverter generators together as one for larger loads if needed. You can always add a second generator if needed. ECO throttle / mode is a necessity as this ensures that the generator is an inverter model and is safe for your electronics. Fuel consumption is also very meager. There are models that can run off propane directly (aftermarket mod), able to use extended-run gasoline tanks, and so whisper quiet they are exempt from quiet-time rules in state/national parks. Yet can still be stored in a toolbox or other small space.
Is my TV running in 120hz?
Augie C
I just bought a new Samsung TV that was advertised as 120hz, but when I go to my PS3's input, on top it says 1080 60p. Does that mean it is running in 60hz?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/46-class-45-9-10-diag--led-1080p-120hz-3d-hdtv/8346045.p?id=1218872211460&skuId=8346045&st=pcmcat193400050018_categoryid$abcat0101001&cp=1&lp=1
That is the TV.
Answer
The numbers that flash up tell you what the INPUT signal is like, not what the TV is running at.
Your TV takes the 60 frames of video per second from your PS3 and draws each one twice. This reduces motion blur and allows them to call it "120 hz".
The 120 hz is built into the physical decay of the panel and cannot be changed.
The numbers that flash up tell you what the INPUT signal is like, not what the TV is running at.
Your TV takes the 60 frames of video per second from your PS3 and draws each one twice. This reduces motion blur and allows them to call it "120 hz".
The 120 hz is built into the physical decay of the panel and cannot be changed.
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Title Post: how Big of generator do i need?
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Rating: 98% based on 988 ratings. 5 user reviews.
Author: Yukie
Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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